Flashes & Flappers

Training Motivation

2012-02-11T13:24:00.000-08:00

Andrew Greig on training

It was often uncomfortable, often painful, particularly for the first month, but other days were pure joy, a revelling in the sensation of movement, of strength and wellbeing. My regular headaches stopped. For the first time ever, I got through winter without even a cold. I felt incredibly well, began to walk and hold myself differently. When friends asked "How are you?", instead of the normal Scottish "Oh, not too bad," I'd find myself saying "Extremely well!"

How obnoxious.

On other days training was pure slog, the body protesting and the will feeble. The mind could see little point in getting up before breakfast to run on a cold, dark morning, and none at all in continuing when it began to hurt. Take a break, why not have a breather, why not run for home now?

It is at times like that that the real work is done. It's easy to keep going when you feel strong and good. Anyone can do that. But at altitude it is going to feel horrible most of the time - and that's what you're really training for. So keep on running, through the pain and the reluctance. Do you really expect to get through this Expedition - this relationship, this book, this life for that matter - without some of the old blood, sweat and tears? No chance. That's part of the point of it all. So keep on running...

The real purpose of training is not so much hardening the body as toughening the will. Enthusiasm may get you started, bodily strength may keep you going for a long time, but only the will makes you persist when those have faded. And stubborn pride. Pride and the will, with its overtones of fascism and suppression, have long been suspect qualities - the latter so much so that I'd doubted its existence. But it does exist, I could feel it gathering and bunching inside me as the months passed. There were times when it alone got me up and running, or kept me from whinging and retreating off a Scottish route. The will is the secret motor that keeps driving when the heart and the mind have had enough.

[From Summit Fever.]

Winter Training

2011-12-31T10:03:00.000-08:00

This last Thursday might have been the last nice day I get out climbing in a long time. Frenchy met up and showed me around Lost City for my first visit there. It was too clod to work on anything really hard, so we just had a lot of fun on climbs in the V3 to V6 range (including Wounded Knee, Lighthouse, A little Sunthin' Sumthin', Underworld, and Penny Pincher). He also showed me some of the harder lines there (Dose of Novocaine, Harmonic Tremors, Air Jordan), all of which look sick! Some motivation for my winter training!

Also, this video is pretty awesome. A little somthin' to watch to stay excited:

Two V9's in two days, and a back injury.

2011-11-28T07:11:00.001-08:00

Had a great trip to the Gunks with Taimur this past Friday and Saturday. Started off big by sending Dragon Turns. Lots of psyche! Next we decided to head down to Sleepy Hollow to check out Even Lovely (which was wet), Spring Training (scary landing), and Art of Nothing (nice line, but no sends this time). Next we headed down to Bizmark, where we met 3 other climbers. With lots of pads and good beta, we did almost all the moves in pieces (but the trick is holding it all together on the send). Very much a power endurance climb, but a lot of fun.

Day 2, we started off at Even Lovely, and after meeting up with another crew, trying numerous sequences, I finally sent it, and Taimur did all the moves.

Next to the Eight Ball boulder. Taimur flashed it, but I kept getting pumped, and scared at the topout, so it took me 3 or 4 attempts to finally get it. Pretty burly, with big moves on big holds.

Slices at Fat Bob's finished the weekend trip.

But then, back in Ithaca, I felt the left over energy, so I went to the gym to work on my fitness. Did some squats, and hurt my back pretty bad. Now I'm just sitting on the couch (because I can barely walk) waiting to get better. Hopefully I'll be in climbing shape by the end of the week, but who knows.

Fall FA's in Dow Run, PA

2011-10-16T09:17:00.000-07:00

A couple of moderates from Doe Run - Ellenton Ridge PA.

Aside from this, Brian and I put a few more FA's:

Karate Kick V2; FA Brian
Super Karate Kick V3; FA Chris
Brian's Awkward Lurch? V1/5; FA Brian
Land Shark V4; FA Chris
Piranha V6; FA Brian
Piranha Poop V1; FA Chris
Cosby Sweater V7; FA Chris

More Newness

2011-10-10T05:07:00.000-07:00

A few FA's at McCraney Run Boulders in Leroy, PA.

Yesterday Brian, Sergio and I went to a new spot in PA and racked up the FA's. Here they are:

Penis Flytrap V0, FA Sergio
Race to Shenanigans V1, FA Chris
Helen of Troy V3, FA Brian, but then the start hold broke, then Chris got it.
Trojan Horse V4, FA Chris
Athenian Bride V2, FA Sergio
Odysseus V7, FA Brian
Ziggy Dubstep V5, FA Chris
Pink Robot V0--, FA Chris in flip-flops with sweaty hands.
Leaf Hairickson V6, FA Chris
1000 Belly Slaps V4, FA Chris
Bonnie V2, FA Sergio
Clyde V2+, FA Chris
Stretch Armstrong V7, FA Brian
Chuck Testa V5, FA Brian

Also, on Friday Brian put up 2 prime problems:

Spiders From Mars V4/5
Achilles' Heel V7

The Newness!!

2011-09-19T15:42:00.000-07:00

So this past Sunday was the first day that the new area on Kellog Mountain in PA has really seen some action. Brian went down this past Friday and established a slew of moderate lines. On Sunday Chase, Alejo, Chili, Brian and I all went down together to start the FA festival!

Some time soon we'll get some photos or videos up to share (we were too psyched on climbing everything to settle down with a camera).

Still, we have a lot to do there and the potential is still not really known.

Somewhere in PA

2011-08-21T17:41:00.001-07:00

The Coke Arete Project

Brian and I spent the day Saturday trashing around in Loyalsock, PA. We started the day off cleaning and working the coke arete project, but are getting about halfway up. Could go soon, or could end up being out of our league.

We then went to middle fern and cleaned and worked the Turtle Roof Project. A few easy moves leads to a V-veryhard mantle up a steep slab with a few ripples. Oh yeah!

McKenzie Pond

2011-07-29T04:10:00.000-07:00

During our trip to the Adirondacks, Renee and I climbed a few high peaks and climbed for a couple of days when it wasn't raining.

Spring Time Sends

2011-07-08T17:38:00.000-07:00

Brian (behind the camera most of the time) and I climbing some easy stuff and then falling off the harder stuff.

The Rapture

2011-05-22T17:22:00.000-07:00

Sorry about the crappy lighting. We had some better footage of Brian getting the FA, but I think the file is effed. Lame!

Hard Lines at Rock Run

2011-05-10T09:26:00.000-07:00

Wailing Wall V9
Right hand 2 finger crimp. Left hand small non existent pinch. Paste feet , up to right hand pinch once again not that great. Bump to lip if ur tall or flying cross move to lip. Haaaard top out.

Unicorn Princess V8?
Start on lowest crimp farthest to the left. But right of wailing.

Human Pony Girl V7
Start on two slopey diagonal edges and crank to a weird ripple with your right hand. Set up you feet and make a long move to a slopey pocket and then make a big reach to the lip.

Punks That Purge V7+
Starts on a thin crimper and an undercling and then moves to good rail. the reach is very long and difficult.

How to get there.

thanks to Brian.

FA's in PA

2011-04-16T18:22:00.000-07:00

New! Adirondack Bouldering Guide

2011-03-29T16:05:00.000-07:00

Check it out:

http://adirondackbouldering.com/

Still in development, but from what I've seen, it looks like it's going to be sick.

Climberism Magazine

2011-03-26T08:59:00.000-07:00

Check it out here.

that's it

Save Cliff!

2011-03-19T14:27:00.000-07:00

Cliff is an inspiration to me (and many others).
Let's help him out

http://keepcliffclimbing.wordpress.com/

Spring Training

2011-03-02T12:40:00.000-08:00

Proper Nutrition:

and Strength Training:

gotta train hard to climb hard!

The South

2011-02-26T18:41:00.000-08:00

Back from the south, and we get greeted with 2 feet of snow. Nice.

Genesis. The only video we took.

Boulering at Hunters PA

2011-01-04T16:56:00.000-08:00

Check out that sweet sandstone!

Year in Review

2010-12-31T13:41:00.000-08:00

This has been my best year yet, as far as climbing goes:

First V7-- The Buddha
First trad climb-- Horseman
First sport climbing-- Blue Run, PA
First FA-- Blazing Straddles
First V8-- Thorazine

And I managed to climb in a lot of new areas:

Niagara Glen
Nine Corners Lake
Blue Run
Loyalsock Forest
Great Barrington

I'm looking forward to a great new year!

New Rock

2010-12-21T16:12:00.000-08:00

So a little birdie told me about some new rock in PA.

Thanks B!

Winter Training

2010-12-12T14:42:00.000-08:00

Gotta get strong to send all those V-Hard problems in the spring. Here's the pieces:

Campus board (laddering, double dynos, offset pullups & lockoffs)
Hangboard (repeaters, working up to one arm hangs)
Core Exercises (front levers, leg-lifts, and the like)
Cardio (at the gym)
Push Workouts (at the gym)
Pull Workouts (at the gym)

Now I just gotta figure out how to piece it all together.

PA Bouldering

2010-11-21T14:22:00.000-08:00

from our latest trek to loyalsock forest PA

Gunks Revisited

2010-11-14T11:26:00.000-08:00

Steve, Taimur, Alex and I had something of a Carriage Road reunion yesterday. And as the equation psyche + friction = sending suggests, all the old projects went down.

We warmed up doing a few laps on boulder of the gods and the lorax, and then got down to the business. We got on Million Dollar Problem just for fun, and I ended up sending after a few tries. I also got a short video of Steve, before my camera's batteries were finished.

We then got on Jackson Pollock and sent in no time. Then, I ended up getting New Pair of Glasses on my second attempt of the day.

Then T and I showed Steve Black Boulder but nobody sent/repeated that day. Then to the Buddha, and I was the only one to repeat it (felt really hard too).

We finished up all trying Pat's Pinch with our headlamps on.

Fat Bob's was our final destination, and much pizza eating ensued.

Best day ever!

2010-11-11T19:22:00.001-08:00

So Brian and I went to 9 Corners today, even though I was feeling a little sick this morning. But after ~~a sloppy~~ the standard warm up (Stairs, Meat & Potatoes, Dave's Problem, repeat) things got better.

Brian put in a lot of work on the crux move(s) of Overburdened V11, while I worked and worked Thorazine V8, and then finally sent.

We then moved on and I sent Hawaii 5-o V5, and then High Tide V4. Brian started working Low Tide V8 (the burly sit to High Tide) and I ended up sending it after 4 tries!

We moved again, and I finished up Psychosomatic V6, and left a fair amount of skin on the rock.

As the sun was getting low, we moved to Power of Belief V3, where the sloppy machines were in full effect! Lots of work, but no sends. So embarrassing.

As the sun was setting, we walked up to Bearded Arnie V7. I gave it 3 tries and told Brian I was done for the night, took off my shoes and started packing up. Then he gave it a try, I got psyched, and gave it one more go as it was getting dark, and made the sloppiest ascent of Bearded Arnie!

All in all, the best day of climbing I've ever had.

Post Crush burritos were consumed at Alto Cinco.

Gotta stay psyched!

2010-10-31T10:22:00.000-07:00

Gotta stay psyched despite ticks and bad weather.

Puss in Boots

2010-10-25T16:51:00.000-07:00

Here's the official report from Brian's and my trip to PA this last weekend:

Got on Mongoose, and used some awesome heel hook beta that takes it from a V8 to V6. Still way too awesome though, despite the downgrade.
Got a second ascent of Charlie Tuna V5.
Got the second ascent of Donkey Lips V9.
Then got the FA for the direct variation Puss in Boots V9.

Not a bad day!

Oh yeah, we made negative progress on Wanda's Left project; I flailed around on Pussy Control V6 for like an hour; we cleaned this super hard compression problem, and slid off it repeatedly; and we almost got lost when I almost broke my headlamp on the night hike out.

All in a day's work.

First V8 & two more FA's

2010-10-18T16:39:00.000-07:00

Another good weekend for the Ithaca bouldering crew (i.e. Brian, Steve and me). We went to the ferns where I sent Wanda's Arete, my ~~only~~ first V8.

Then, with daylight leaving, we headed to the fence boulder to see what it has to offer. We all got on the classic looking arete problem (until I hear its "official" name, I'm calling it Laser Laser). Then we cleaned some holds to the left, which became Live Active Cultures V2 and My Way or the Highway V3. Both are fun. Both are contrived. Both have sketchy topouts. Your welcome.

What's new?

2010-10-03T06:40:00.000-07:00

Time ~~to spray~~ for some updates:

I got my first FA yesterday! Blazing Straddles V5 in the sprocket in Loyal Stock State Forest. Last time there it felt ~~impossible~~ like V9. But it went down pretty easy with good friction.

Brian got two other FA's in the sprocket (with me getting twosies on the one he flashed).

I worked a few other climbs but still have to send Skeletor, Wanda's Arete, and Donkey Lips in Lower Fern.

In other "news," my Iron Palm is in the mail, and I should finally get my campus board up sometime this week. I definitely need to step up my training (better late than never) if I'm going to crush this fall.

PA Climbing

2010-08-29T06:26:00.000-07:00

Only two hours away from Ithaca, Pennsylvania has some pretty great climbing! This past week, Bryan took Renee and I to two small bouldering spots at Trout Run, in central PA (here & here). I'm not sure of their names, but they are both off Route 14, and in the woods.

The boulders in this part of PA are made of hard sandstone. Which means a lot of nice slopers and pinches and pockets, bot not too many crimps. There are so many wavy, organic shapes to climb on. Bryan got me on some classic problems at both spots, and there was plenty for Renee to climb too.

Yesterday, I went with the Free Outing Club to Blue Run for my first sport climbs. I led my first sport climb, Darwin's Dilemma, and a few other easy routes. Steve and I also set up a toprope to send some other routes in the 5.11 range, and to work Metastable and Campfire Direct. No sends on either, but I was able to get all the moves on Metastable in about an hour.

Next time we go there, I want to get those 5.11's on lead, and try Metastable on lead as well.

three days, two countries, lots of boulders, lots of torn skin

2010-08-09T06:25:00.000-07:00

Friday, Renee, Hermes and I spent the day at Nine Corners lake climbing on the rocks. It is such a nice place! At only three hours away, we'll definitely be there a lot this fall. I sent a lot of cool easy problems, a couple moderate ones, but the two that gave me the most trouble were the Origin, and Thorazine. I worked them both for a while, but couldn't manage the topout on either. So sad.

Sunday, Steve and I took a trip to Niagara Glen. We spent 8 hours there, and only managed to climb in two of the areas. There is so much there! Sandstone, pockets and good landings (mostly) characterized the areas. Andrew, a local Canadian climber, showed us Dead Raccoon, a crazy cave problem on the river, that I had, but fell off topping out.

I wish I climbed like a girl

2010-07-24T19:45:00.000-07:00

Check out this sick video of ~~Alex Puccio~~ me sending Diaphanous Sea.

Ithaca Bouldering

2010-07-20T07:11:00.000-07:00

So While there is no MPHC or Rat Rock, I've still been getting my climbing on.

Here's where I've been climbing lately in Ithaca:

In Don's attic with the Ithaca Free Outing Club.
The bouldering wall at Noyes.
The Lindseth climbing wall.

Also, out of Ithaca:

When I'm in Rochester, the Red Barn at RIT is definitely the best gym upstate.
I've gone to the Gunks once so far, and will hopefully go a few more times soon.

Welcome to Ithaca

2010-07-06T12:06:00.000-07:00

As of July 1st, I'll be in Ithaca for the long term! No more rat rock. No more MPHC. No more zip car trips to the Gunks.

However, I have a car now, so trips to the Gunks (and Dacks) are in plan for the summer and fall. The main drawback is that there is no gym in Ithaca. I'm not sure what this means for the climbing community here, but I have already made a few friends at the Noyes bouldering wall.

Gotta' keep the fitness up! So far I have an Etch hangboard set up, and hopefully will get a woody or campus board in the next few weeks.

Break Time.

2010-06-13T15:30:00.000-07:00

This week is going to be my rest week. I climbed with Taimur at BKB today, but I had to ake it easy with my right hand. My form was way off, everything felt sluggish, and I got pumped out on some of the long problems on the wave.

So to break this slump (and to let my tendons heal) I'm going to take a break from climbing this week, and maybe climb easy next weekend (hopefully outside) to ease back into summer crush mode.

I should do lots of yoga this week to keep fit.

New Design!

2010-06-12T11:56:00.001-07:00

Look at the colors!

Defeat

2010-05-16T16:45:00.000-07:00

All the great weather, homemade granola bars and iced coffee were not enough for me to send Mr. Ed today. Although neither Jessie nor I were able to get it, Ashima figured out some sick beta that gave her the only send of the day.

Summer Goals

2010-05-15T08:06:00.001-07:00

Summer's almost (1 .5 months) here! So now is a good time to set my goals for the summer and get to training.

My main focus in bouldering, so my top goals are as follows:

Mr. Ed, V8, Harriaman
Jackson Pollack, V8, Trapps
The Illustrious Buddha, V8, Trapps
The Pearl, V8, Nears
Delicate Soul, V7, Peter's Kill
Tiger Style, V7, Peter's Kill
Village Idiot, V7, Peter's Kill

Also, climb a couple of V8's at MPHC, and a V9/V10 at BKB.

As far as sport and trad go, Alex is going to "show me the ropes" one of these days, and then we'll get on High Exposure some time. Suffern and West Point also offer some pretty good sport lead that isn't too far.

Regardless, it looks like I have my work cut out for me. No doubt these goals will change as I (hopefully) climb at more places [gunks, daks], but this is IT for now.

Harriman Bouldering

2010-04-25T06:02:00.000-07:00

A sunny Saturday? We have to climb outside! But of the entire MPHC crew, only Alex, Jesse and I (plus Renee and Austin) took the train out to Tuxedo.

We worked Mr. Ed in the Master Bedroom, linked every move (except one near the start) but nobody sent.

However, we did all get the coolest highball V2 I've ever seen.

So awesome, y'all better come next time!

Goodbye Yuki!

2010-04-09T19:21:00.001-07:00

Who: Yuki

What: Farewell Gathering & Picnic

When: 3 pm - 9 pm

Where: Rat Rock, Central Park

Why: Yuki is headed back to Japan for a while (I'm not sure for how long; maybe indefinitely)

It's always sunny in the Gunks

2010-04-06T17:48:00.000-07:00

Well, not always. But is has been nice as of late.

Dylan almost crushing Boxcar Arete.
Me totally crushing the crashpads.

Unstoppable Ashima!

2010-03-28T19:03:00.000-07:00

She's in Dead Point Magazine!

She's all over 8a.nu!

Even New York Magazine did a feature on her!

What will she do next!

Feats of Strength

2010-03-17T14:53:00.000-07:00

Thanks to Christopher Payan for the photos!

Outside climbing!

2010-03-07T13:56:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was Gunks-day.

We hit up Black Boulder and I sent on my third go. So sticky!

Then we hiked through all the snow (I had on cotton shoes) to the Buddha. We worked it for like an hour. Then I accidentally sent it. Nobody even had a camera ready!

Oh well. We then tried New pair of glasses and Man and the motorcar, but no further sends.

Let's try this out-side climbing

2010-03-05T03:35:00.000-08:00

Gunks on Saturday! There should be sun and not too cold temps.

Crush.

Pictures from the MPHC winter comp!

2010-02-26T19:24:00.000-08:00

Check these out!

Crushing: Volume 2?

2010-02-18T18:18:00.000-08:00

Big comp at Valhalla Saturday!

Is trad "greener" than sport?

2010-02-07T09:22:00.000-08:00

The March 2010 issue of Climbing is full of environmental buzz words and was all fluff (i.e. never addressed major causes of pollution, climate change, etc.). But rather than writing a letter saying how I disagree with the basic premise of their magazine, I sent them this letter challenging their belief that trad climbing is less destructive (or "greener") to ecosystems than sport:

While reading "Green 5.14" I noticed that there was an unstated assumption that trad was green and sport climbing was not. This is a pretty big assumption to make. I have not found any research showing that placing protection has less of an environmental impact than bolts. In fact it seems that placing pro has more of an ecological impact. For instance, most of the organisms that live on rock faces are found in the same crevices that climbers place nuts and cams. Additionally, a cam can scrape a much larger surface area than a bolt can. Lastly, a full trad rack requires much more energy (therefore more carbon) to produce than a dozen quick draws.

In short, I do not think that we should automatically assume that placing pro is more ecologically friendly than bolting the same route. There needs to be actual scientific studies to show that trad is more "green" than sport.

On a related note, check out How Stuff Works for an overview of how companies use "green" and other buzzwords to seem more environmentally conscious.

Crush Town!

2010-02-06T16:18:00.000-08:00

1st place men's intermediate!

... and better still!

2010-01-03T15:07:00.000-08:00

Climbed for a solid four hours at the gym today. I felt sooo much better too. Re-sent a V5 and a bunch of V4's and felt very strong overall.

I even did some routes and flashed a 5.11

to finish it all up, I did some reverse forearm curls with a straight bar I found on the side of the road.

Feeling better

2010-01-02T18:38:00.000-08:00

Today was a much better day at the gym than last time. Re-sent some V4's, almost sent some old V5's and started a V7 and V8. I still don't feel as strong as I did a few weeks ago, and my back is still sore, so I think I should go slow and not push myself too hard (which is going to take some discipline).

One thing I'm taking away from this is that I'm going to do some light climbing once or twice the week before the comp at MPHC.

Who needs "training" anyways?

2010-01-01T14:38:00.000-08:00

With 2010 here I figured I would put down some goals for the year ahead. Since it's winter, I've been thinking about training a lot, namely periodization etc., according to Eric Horst.

Then I read some interviews with some of my favorite climbers. Here's what I found:

Daniel Woods used to do "typical training" consisting of sit ups, pull ups, pushups etc, but says that the best method is to just climb as much as possible.
It seems that Dave Graham occasionally does some pull ups etc.
In the gym, Chris Sharma climbs what he wants, when he wants, and campuses about once a week.
Nalle Hukkataival trains by climbing, surfing, climbing, climbing, hiking, & climbing.

On the other hand, these guys are crazy strong naturally. And then there are people like Patxi Usobiaga who trains five hours a day every day.

Looking at all of this, I think that my winter training plan is going to be to climb as much as possible in the gym (3-4 times a week) with campus work once a week, hangboard once a month, pull ups and core work. Also, to do pushups and situps at home 3 times a week. Additionally, I need to start eating healthier (less fats and sweets) and maybe even eat meat every once in a while.

One of my goals is to climb V7 in the gym by spring (say June at the latest).

Back to the gym

2009-12-31T14:07:00.001-08:00

What a lousy day at the gym. I was expecting to come back from a week and a half break fresh and energized. Instead, I'm weak, sloppy and have a sore back. Hopefully it will only be a couple of days before I'm back to where I used to be.

Great training site

2009-12-26T19:44:00.000-08:00

I just skimmed through Ben Moon's site, and it looks pretty thorough.

Maybe I'll get Ben Moon strong by spring!

Little bit of rest

2009-12-22T16:22:00.000-08:00

I'm pretty excited for the vacation coming up; and since I'll be traveling back and forth between Binghamton and Rochester, I'm taking a much needed rest week. I haven't had a rest week since I started climbing two years ago (at least not one that I can remember).

Starting in January, I'll try to set up a training schedule. The question is, do I listen to Eric Horst and only focus on sport specific and climb a lot at MPHC; or do I listen to Rob Miller and also work on general fitness by lifting weights and cross-training.

Mountain Athlete has a list of exercises that might be good to try (though the music is dreadful).

Performance Enhancing Substances

2009-12-16T16:07:00.000-08:00

My CRANK Forearm Fuel Free sample is in the mail!

Has anyone tried this before? Do you recommend it?

Well, I'll see in a few days.

Winter Comp!

2009-11-23T17:49:00.000-08:00

Get Ready to Crush on Plastic:

Winter Bouldering Competition

MPHC Climbing Gym

February 6, 2010

And apparently there is going to be some kind of big surprise that Bill is all excited about. No idea what it could be, but I bet it's going to be awesome. Not to mention the routes are going to be SICK!

Back to the gym

2009-11-19T18:32:00.000-08:00

Goodbye daylight, hello dusk at half-past four

Goodbye sunburn, hello seasonal depression

Goodbye rat rock, hello plastic

Worthless Boulder & the Ivan Green rock

2009-11-11T18:40:00.000-08:00

Finally sent A.D.D. today, along with Alex, Ben and Matt (?) after getting Lorenzo's beta.

See us send it:

Me-

Alex-

Ben-

Then headed over to the big rock sticking out over the road a.k.a the Matterhorn, a.k.a. the marathon boulder, a.k.a. the Millennium Falcon, a.k.a. the Ivan Green rock

Lorenzo got us psyched (as usual) and we got pretty far on in it w/o breaking any ankles!

Bouldering in Inwood & Fort Tryon

2009-11-09T16:41:00.000-08:00

I finally made it up to Inwood Park to check out the Indian caves there. Lorezo met us there and we all sent the easy cave problem (V2 or V3) and worked a harder project.

Then Alex and I went to Fort Tryon to give Life is Beautiful (V4) a try. No sends this time, but it felt good up to (and not including) the blast hold.

Climbing in the Dark

2009-11-05T15:25:00.000-08:00

Curse these early sunsets! Today was great climbing weather, but I was only able to climb until 5:15! With an hour warmup, that means 45 minutes of climbing.

It looks like I'll begin to call MPHC home during the coming weeknights.

At least Sunday looks like great crushing weather!

Shout Out!

2009-11-02T15:05:00.000-08:00

Let me just say that the single factor making me a stronger climber is climbing with my boyAlex (and Danny when he's not in the Gunks!)

Nothing beats good partners.

Polish Traverse Madness!

2009-10-29T16:27:00.000-07:00

Some *good* shots of True, Alex and me sending the Polish Traverse (V5) from a few days ago (you know, before all the rain).

enjoy.

Stealth Paint?

2009-10-23T11:47:00.000-07:00

Out for a few days because this groin pull thing --OUCH

But, on the bright side, this 5.10 Stealth Stealth Paint looks awesome.

I might have to get some--I've always wanted rubber hands!

New! Videos of Central Park Bouldering

2009-10-21T19:04:00.000-07:00

Alex Mestler, Danny Rosenblum and I make our cinematic debut!

See tweaky Shit:

Watch the Crimpy-dyno:

Behold the Test Piece:

Stay Tuned for More Groundbreaking Shorts!

Soon to be filmed: Rat Rock north face, Worthless Boulder, & More!

New Batteries!

2009-10-19T19:26:00.000-07:00

Question: Who just picked up a pair of Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA batteries for his shit-ass camera?

Answer: Me.

I got motivated last night by watching some Dabtronics videos of bouldering in Central Park, and decided that Danny, Alex and I need to make our own videos. So after a short session at Rat Rock today, I got my camera all ready to make some awesome videos.

Watch out YouTube!

My body hurts from the gym

2009-10-18T12:33:00.000-07:00

August-September-October has been the longest period of time that I haven't been climbing in a gym (due to my climbing outside all that time).

Yesterday, Renee and I went to Brooklyn Boulders again (2nd time ever) and climbed for 3 hours (well, I was there for 4 hours actually). Renee is doing well--she can climb V0's and most V1's without too much of a problem. Soon she'll be crushing V11!

As for me:

flash some of Ivan's V4's--no problem
work some nasty overhangy V5's--piece of cake
campus board "around the tiger"--3 times around... in each direction
pull-ups using a pinch grip--3 sets

Needless to say, my body isn't use to that kind of plastic workout. Still, the weather looks great this week (starting Monday), so get ready to crush some NYC problems!

V5? No Problem! + Low Balls

2009-10-14T19:13:00.000-07:00

After wrecking ourselves at Peter's Kill on Monday, Danny, Alex & I met up at Rat Rock for some easy climbing. So of course Danny flashed a no-hand mantle and worked the heel-hooks in his Nike's; Alex and I sent the V5 crimpy-dyno on the far left of the ledge.

Additionally, I think we had six people top out at the same time on the ledge.

Dog at Rat Rock

2009-10-10T13:53:00.000-07:00

Hermes (my dog, not the god) spent some more time at Rat Rock today and met a lot of climbers. But he loved barking whenever I went to climb. Needless to say it took about an hour to finally warm up. But when I did, I was able to send the Test Piece from the undercling start; I sent it on my second attempt today without a pad (but with Lorenzo giving a world class spot).

Back on Rock

2009-10-08T16:24:00.000-07:00

It felt so nice to be back on rock today. I haven't touched that fine Manhattan Schist in almost a week! Yet since I've sent the Test Piece and the Polish Traverse I don't have any more projects on Rat Rock. I'm sure there are some, I just need Billy or Yuki to show them to me to get me psyched!

Speaking of psyched, this makes me wish I had a T.V.

2 Rocks and 1 New Gym in 2 Non-Consecutive Days

2009-10-04T16:39:00.000-07:00

The other day I climbed with Billy at Rat Rock pretty strong, resent the Polish Traverse on my first! try and did some cool things on the East Face.

Then I met up with Danny and Alex up at Worthless Boulder, resent (maybe?) Mean Green and almost sent A.D.D. (V6)--all but the second move. I also sent Voodoo Bullshit (V2), which is really cool!

Today Renee and I visited Brooklyn Boulders. Such a nice building, but so long to get to. I flashed a lot of easy problems--mostly set by Ivan Greene [name drop].

Ramble Bouldering

2009-09-30T16:50:00.000-07:00

Aside from all the condom wrappers, lube and crack viles, the bouldering in the Ramble is pretty sick.

Here is what we sent, according to Rock Climbing New Jersey by Paul Nick & Neil Sloane:

Freestanding Rock Arete (V1) on the North end of the Freestanding Rock
Split Peas (V1) on the north end of Split Rock
This is Contrived (V5) on the south end of Split Rock
Ramble Rock Bulge (V3) on the chalked-up rock by a cobble bridge/tunnel.

Curb Your Enthusiasm (V2)

2009-09-29T13:34:00.000-07:00

New Route? Perhaps, but not likely. If it is, then Alex put up an FA on it and is calling it "Curb Your Enthusiasm" and is grading it V2.

Worthless Boulder & 103rd Street Outcrops

2009-09-28T16:00:00.000-07:00

Rain Rain Go Away...

and it did!

Alex & I (Danny was being silly, i.e. climbing in the Gunks) Crushed a sick problem on Worthless; we think it's Mean Green (V4), but we may have used too many nice big holds; we also worked A.D.D. (V6) but couldn't get the starting moves.

Me on Mean Green?

With ominous clouds moving over Manhattan, Alex had me follow him to some rock outcropping on Central Park West and 103rd Street. There are two nice problems on it, and we sent both.

Alex with the send!

Rat Rock's Test Piece

2009-09-25T16:57:00.000-07:00

Another notable send today: I finally sent the Test Piece (V4) at Rat Rock. Here's my formula:

Good Weather + 3(Good Spotters) + Ashima's Crash Pad + Yuki's Beta = Send

After the sketchy, sketchy top out, my hand were so shaky I was done for the day. Previously, I attempted to re-resend the Polish Traverse 3 times, and subsequently failed to top out 3 times. For shame!!!

Next, I have to send the Test Piece from the flake's tiny undercling. Additionally, there are a few problems I want to work at Worthless Boulder.

Crimpin' still Aint Easy

2009-09-21T18:25:00.000-07:00

Whine! My finger tips hurt soooo bad. Boo hoo for me :o(

But for good reasons.

Reason the first: Alex, Danny & I (in that order) sent Scratching Post (aka L.O.T.A.) V3 at Cat Rock. Super nice sends all around for a super nice problem.

Reason 2: We all started Private Angel, but failed to get too far into it. Some day later...

3rd Reason: Rocks are hard

Reason Last: I almost sent Test Piece at Rat, but, again, failed to get through the gnar mantel to top it out (even with Yuki's beta).

But a nice session at Cat Rock (though it was still pretty toasty in the sun). And to end the day, Danny & I chatted climbing philosophy with Yuki as the sun set at Rat Rock.

Bruised finger tips

2009-09-19T19:10:00.000-07:00

Whole lot of crimpin' at rat rock left my fingertips all bruised.

Yuuuukiii!

But it's just a sign that I sent (including some on-sights [or flashes depending on your take of bouldering]) some really cool problems.

This cool weather is awesome! Fall, I welcome thee.

Rat Rocks!

2009-09-17T17:23:00.000-07:00

I met this guy from LA (I'm so bad with names!) climbing at rat rock, and I showed him the Polish Traverse. Of course this guy almost flashes it, works it a few times and then sends it with some new-fangled beta! After he sent it a 2nd time, so his sister could record it, I also sent it again.

I do love MPHC, but I've been loving climbing outside.

I Love Rat Rock

2009-09-15T17:05:00.001-07:00

Thanks Alex for the great pictures

POLISH!!!

2009-09-14T20:32:00.000-07:00

At last, I finally sent the Polish Traverse (V5) tonight! And of course, I sent it while joking with Alex. After a year of working this one problem on and (mostly) off it's about fucking time that it went.

(Pictures in reverse)

On the East Face, I sent a few new problems Yuki made up and one that Alex showed me.

A wonderful day!

M to the fucking P. H. C.

2009-09-09T18:40:00.000-07:00

Worked some of the cave problems in the cave and sent the White V4 finally, and worked the Red V7 and a few others.

In more exciting news, I (at last) sent the Purple V7- problem with the dyno-mantle crux. So cool once I got my head (literal and metaphor) around it.

On the gossip side of things, I might have heard hopeful plans about a headlamp party at a certain climbing gym...

Rat Rock & broken ankles

2009-09-06T19:18:00.000-07:00

We all know climbing is dangerous, but today I saw this guy break his fucking ankle. The combination of bad spotting and a landing meant I had to put my phone into Emergency Mode and signal an ambulance. Shitty shitty luck.

Anyway, it was a good day climbing in all other respects--cool, dry, good folks. I was climbing pretty hard since I was sticking to all the crimps on the East face. But alas, still no send of the Polish Traverse, though I only tried it twice today, once with the harder start.

Flashback!

2009-08-29T18:26:00.000-07:00

Today was totally fucking awesome. Everyone was climbing super hard, and there were like a one-hundred and forty sick ass problems. Shout out to all the badass setters at MPHC!

Pictures from Alex's dad soon to follow.

Rat Rock Represent

2009-08-27T18:11:00.000-07:00

Renee & I did a little climbing out of doors today. It was the first nice day in a long time. No rain and no ninety-fucking-percent humidity! Always a nice change.

I just took it easy, resting up for MPHC's Flashback Comp this Saturday.

Fucking Gunks!

2009-08-26T18:22:00.000-07:00

Yesterday (Tuesday) Alex, Ben, Danny and I went to the Near Trapps and the Trapps.

Alex almost sticking the last move on Cream Cheese (V6).
Working the side pull on Cream Cheese

Ben on the start of Cream Cheese
Danny checking out the top of High and Scary (V5).

Rat Rock

2009-08-23T15:10:00.000-07:00

Finally, a day not in the upper 80's! though it was still quite humid.

I climbed some old routes at rat rock from 11:30 to 2:00. Nothing new, just an easy day of climbing to get my fingers (and mind) readjusted to climbing outside. Hopefully I'll head up to the Gunks this Tuesday.

Yoga & Climbing

2009-08-22T06:32:00.001-07:00

Yesterday, Renee and I went to yoga at Laughing Lotus for a morning session. I felt calm and energized afterwards.

then I went to MPHC at noon and climbed for three hours. I mostly worked problems in the roof, but I didn't send anything new (the blue/white is so close!)

MPHC

2009-08-19T16:10:00.000-07:00

Today Renee and I went to MPHC. I worked some of the roof problems, notably the blue/white (V6-). I also sent some other problems: white/orange/blue (V4) and Yellow/Blue (V5?) and some other ones I had already sent (pink, orange, white/purple).

I also did 2 sets of pull-ups on the hang-board.

Today was my first day with my optimus primes, and I really like them so far.

New Shoes

2009-08-18T18:56:00.000-07:00

I went to EMS today and picked up a pair of Optimus Primes. I wanted a pair of Solutions, but their heel didn't fit rite. We'll see how these shape up.

MPHC

2009-08-17T19:49:00.000-07:00

Today was HOT out, so I headed to the gym (I was supposed to go to the Gunks today, but I got no sleep last night).

My friend Pat was there by chance. He's been climbing for less than a year and he works V8's at the Gunks! This just shows that I need to train on harder problems and I'll get stronger. Also, he's a beast.

We climbed in the roof mainly and flashed a few of the easier problems, and then worked some harder ones. We were getting close with most of them, but we just lost our steam and focus. But overall a good day despite my lack of sleep.

Rat Rock

2009-08-15T21:22:00.000-07:00

Still working the Polish Traverse!

Alex called me up on my trip back to the city and told me he sent the Polish! I was so excited to get it when I got back.

But today I worked it for about an hour, banged my ankle really hard (I know, I'm weak. But it's been tender from sloppy heal-hooking) and left after a few more failed attempts. Rite now, the only move I cannot get is getting my left hand from the crimp to the golfball while my right hand is on the sloper.

It'll go any day now!

Rock Ventures & MPHC

2009-08-12T20:33:00.000-07:00

Last week (Sunday) I spent about 3 hours at MPHC. I was kind of tired from Friday at Rat Rock.

Today I went to Rock Ventures for 4 hours and traversed for the first hour, then worked problems in the cave for the next 2 hours, then did some balance-oriented problems and pull-ups for the last hour.

Nothing spectacular to wright about. Nothing beats real rock!

Rat Rock

2009-08-07T18:03:00.000-07:00

Went to Rat Rock around 11 am today. Ran into Billy, who's great to climb with and talk to about climbing.

He showed me the sit start for Tweaky Shit (V4) which is really cool, and I sent it after he left.

He also showed us how the Flake (V2) is supposed to go: start anywhere on the flake, go straight up and right to top out, but the jug is off and the horn is off.

I played around on some other things, but nothing memorable.

After that, I decided to work the Polish Traverse (V5) for a little while. I'm able to do all the moves, and worked the crimp-golfball-sloper moves, but I still can't link it all together.

I finished with some campus work. All in all, a great day.

Worthless Boulder & Shit Rock

2009-08-05T14:52:00.000-07:00

Very good day outside! 80% humidity and 80 degrees--needless to say, not ideal climbing weather.

Showed up to Worthless a little before 11, and warmed up with my Powerball while cleaning the chalked up holds. I then sent the slab, and the Shits & Giggles (V1) traverse and warmed up throwing dynos from the jug to the rim. I kept warming up until Alex rolled up around noon.

Once Alex could spot me, I sent Gumb Project (V1)--the SS on the far-left arete, and I sent what we thought was Voodoo Bullshit (V2), but is some other cool problem near it (probably some variation that skips the undercling). We tried to start Mean Green (V4), but couldn't start it.

Then we moved on to Shit Rock, and Alex showed me Pile Driver (V4), which I worked for an hour or more, taking breaks while it rained. I eventually sent it with a little footwork.

Trapps!

2009-08-03T19:12:00.000-07:00

Today Jason drove Luke, Alex and I up to the Trapps for a great day of bouldering.

We warmed up on the square traverse boulder for a little. Then we moved to the Gill Pinch

Roof (V4), where we warmed up on the traverse

(V2?) and another crimpy problem (V0 - V1?) before the pinch roof. None of us sent it, but Jason and I got pretty far

on it (past all the pinch-parts and over the roof) but couldn't finish it.

We then tried the Black Boulder Problem (V4) for a bit, but didn't make much progress.

After that we moved on to Andrew's Problem. After working it a few times, I finally sent it!

but swung out coming out of the roof. I then tried the start of the Buddha (V7 I think?) but couldn't set my right heel for the start. I also gave Andrew's Leap (V2) a try, but didn't give it much and didn't send it.

After an hour+ we moved back to the Pebble Boulder, but I couldn't hold on to anything.

Then this guy came and showed us some beta for the Black Boulder Problem, and I got really excited! and worked it for another hour, getting really close to sending it--I can get up to the sloper and then flag my feet, but couldn't get my left-hand to the little thumb-catch/pinch.

After giving up on the Black Boulder for the day (around 4:30 pm) we decided to give the Lorax (V4) a try. I almost flashed it, but I couldn't get my right hand up to the bomber finish hold (since my right foot wasn't on anything). Then I worked the finish, and sent it after that.

All in all, a wonderful day!

Gunks tomorrow!

2009-08-02T20:00:00.000-07:00

I'll bring my camera, so I'll put up some good pictures!

MPHC

2009-07-31T16:10:00.000-07:00

Climbed the right wall in MPHC today. I was at the gym for about 4 to 5 hours total. My energy level was alright--not great, not bad. I taped up my left index finger again, since it's been a little sore (no pain, but I don't want to tweak it).

I also did the lead roof (blue-marble) and took a huge fall trying to clip in.

I also flashed a 5.10 route that was all 2-3 finger pockets.

The Rock Club

2009-07-29T17:49:00.000-07:00

Another rainy, hot and humid day --> checking out a new gym.

Luke, Alex and I went to The Rock Club to try out our hands at lead climbing. However, we couldn't get tested until 6pm. So from 11 am to 6 pm we climbed a lot of overhanging top-roped routes. We warmed up on a few 5.9 and 5.9+ routes. Then we climbed a few 5.10 and 5.10+ routes and one or two 5.11's. After those, our stamina was gone (what's a boulderer to do?) so we climbed 5.7 to 5.9.

At the end of the day we all were lead tested on a 5.8. Next time, we'll crush some awesome lead routes!

Other training

2009-07-28T19:14:00.000-07:00

I went to Yoga to the People today for a sweaty hour of power flow.

then I met up with my pal Jeremy for an hour-and-a-half of roller blading in Flushing Meadows Corona Park.

Log

2009-07-27T18:45:00.000-07:00

I went to rat rock today for 30 min, and then it started raining. Nothing worth noting, though my left pointer finger is a little swollen/sore. I iced it for an hour (on/off) and took 2 Advil.

I wanted to save my strength for Wednesday (Gunks) but get a little real rock in too.

Gym Log

2009-07-26T18:24:00.000-07:00

Today I climbed for about 3 hours at MPHC:

-I worked the black problem by the doorway, but couldn't stick the last move [from the right-hand-pinch & left-hand slap]

-I sent the orange with brown.

-In the overhang doorway area, I've sent most of the problems, excluding the black, the orange, the green, the pink-white, the yellow, and the orange [moving from left to right].